Embracing the beauty of curly or textured hair involves styling it right, but managing it can be a challenge, especially in hot, humid summers. This is where the significance of professional hair softening and straightening comes into play. Beyond perfect mane control, it imparts a frizz-free, silky, and bouncy allure. While various methods exist for straightening hair, many opt for chemical relaxers or keratin treatments for time and stress efficiency, especially among women with Afro-American or ethnic hair. The choice between a hair relaxer and keratin treatment is explored to decipher the nuances between these two methods and how they combat frizz and enhance hair smoothness—unveiling the details to help you make an informed decision.
Hair Relaxer or Keratin Treatment – Choosing the Right One
Both chemical hair relaxers and keratin straightening are professional hair treatments that make curly hair softer, smoother, and straighter. But distinguishing between these two can be tricky until you consult an expert and have all the correct information. So, let us help you decide the best option according to your hair type to achieve the desired results.
Read Also – Indulge in These 4 Simple Homemade Hair Straightening Packs to Get Silky Straight Hair
Everything about Chemical Relaxer
What is a Hair Relaxer?
A hair relaxer is a chemical-based cream or lotion applied to coarse and kinky curls to turn them softer and straighter. As a result, it reduces frizz and makes the hair more manageable. However, relaxers do not make the hair straight, and you may wish to further straighten after the procedure. Natural hair relaxers are also available, essentially deep hair conditioners providing intense moisturization.
Chemical relaxant kits available in the market can be used at home for salon-like results. But it can be tricky to use them effectively without formal cosmetology training.
How Does It Work?
The chemicals break down the disulfide bonds that hold the protein structures together within hair strands during relaxation. This allows the hair elements to be manipulated and rearranged, thereby altering the hair’s overall texture.
Types of Relaxer
The best relaxer is chosen by matching the relaxer’s strength with the type and texture of hair. A ‘strand test’ helps assess compatibility. Typically, there are three kinds of chemical hair relaxers:
- Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers (Lye Relaxers) are strong alkaline for fast results and can cause scalp inflammation.
- Calcium Hydroxide Relaxers (No-Lye Relaxers) are softer than the lye versions and make hair drier. It suits all three types of hair and sensitive scalps as well. It should be used with a ‘de-calcifying’ shampoo to avert calcium buildup.
- Ammonium Thioglycolate Relaxers – Work well on wavy, curly, and fine hair. Do not suit coily or very coarse hair.
A relaxer of regular strength is enough to treat very thick, coarse, and kinky hair. Too much active chemical in the formulation can damage hair.
Read Also – How to Use Henna for Damaged and Frizzy Hair? The Secret Recipe for Ultimate Smoothness!
The Procedure
Whether a professional hairstylist relaxes your hair or you do it at home yourself, the procedure comprises the following steps:
- A light coat of petroleum jelly is applied all over the scalp as a ‘barrier’ to protect it from chemical burns.
- In virgin hair, the relaxer is applied to the ends of the locks first as they take longer to process.
- It is then worked up to the roots, and the strands are smoothened throughout the step.
- After 10-15 minutes of processing, the relaxer is rinsed out of the hair with warm water.
- A good conditioner is applied to rebalance the pH level.
- Then, the alkalizing chemical process is deactivated several times using a neutralizing shampoo.
- Finally, moisturizing treatment is applied thoroughly to reinstate the hair’s hydration.
- For new growth, overlapping is avoided; only the hair roots are touched up every 8-10 weeks.
Over-relaxed hair looks limp and lifeless and may thin out over time too. Hence, it is recommended that you get your hair relaxed relatively straight while leaving in a tiny bit of texture.
Time Required
Based on the length of your hair, the relaxing treatment can take between 30 minutes and 1 hour.
Post-Treatment Measures
Taking proper care of your relaxed hair is essential to keep it in tip-top shape, and here are the ways:
- Use a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo to cleanse your hair without stripping off its natural oils
- Maintain its moisture balance by applying lightweight yet deep-penetrating oils and leave-in conditioners regularly
- For extra hydration of the hair, deep condition it once every week by alternating a protein and moisturizing mask
- Steer clear of heat styling tools like flat irons, curling irons, etc. to avoid dryness
- Trim the porous and fragile ends of your locks whenever necessary
How Long Does It Last?
The straightening effects of a chemical relaxer last for approximately 6 to 8 weeks until new growth occurs. After that, however, the change to your existing hair structure is permanent.
Risks and Side Effects
Chemical hair relaxers need to be used carefully to avoid potential side effects. These include chemical injuries, dehydrated hair, dullness, frizziness, weak and fragile hair (1), hair loss, etc. Relaxers should also not be used on color-treated hair, and the application of dyes should be limited after treatment.
Costs
A salon treatment for relaxing hair costs up to $200, while at-home kits range from $15 to $20.
Read Also – How to Use a Straightening Iron without Damaging Hair
Keratin Hair Straightening
What is Keratin?
Keratin is the structural protein of our hair, nails, and skin. It is also found naturally in our internal organs and glands and can be derived from animals’ nails, horns, feathers, and wool. As our hair’s building block, keratin is widely used in hair care products, supplements, and treatments. The protective protein is rich in a specific amino acid called ‘cysteine,’ making the hair super strong and highly elastic, thus making it healthier and less prone to breakage.
What is Keratin Treatment?
Keratin treatment, also known as Brazilian straightening, is a semi-permanent chemical process that makes curly and frizzy hair smoother, shinier, and more manageable. This treatment softens and strengthens the hair to give it a sleek, flat-ironed appearance rather than straightening it out directly by disrupting its texture (2). It uses a formaldehyde-releasing solution containing keratin protein and some other conditioners. The method works for hair of all types, textures, and colors.
Keratin treatment is not good for severely damaged or extremely fragile hair. It is also not recommended for pregnant and breastfeeding women.
How Does It Work?
In Keratin treatment, a unique blend of hydrolyzed keratin is infused deep into the hair cuticles, which are the layers of the overlapping cells forming your hair strands. It smoothens these cuticles by adhering to them, relaxing the hair strands at the sub-cuticle layer. As a result, the hair turns less curly, voluminous, and glossy. Moreover, it appears straight and becomes very easy to style.
After a keratin treatment, your blowout time can become shorter by 40% to 60%. It also makes the hair frizz-free so that you do not need to worry about walking out in light rain or humid weather.
The Procedure
Performed in the salon by hair experts, this time-intensive procedure for getting straight, smooth hair involves the following steps:
- Your hair is prepared by washing it thoroughly. Then, it can either be blow-dried or left wet for the next step.
- The keratin protein solution is applied to the hair well to become completely saturated.
- It is allowed to work on the hair for 20-30 minutes to facilitate the breaking process of the keratin bonds.
- Then, the hair is blown dry and flat-ironed strategically to reseal the keratin boned in the hair structure.
Serums, shampoos, conditioners, and other hair care products containing ‘keratin hydro lysates” can make hair damage-resistant and repair dried out hair.
Read Also – What is Keratin Hair Straightening Treatment? – Things You Must Know
Time Required
Though the time required for the treatment depends on the texture of the hair, the volume of the hair, and the formula used by the hairstylist, it usually takes between 2 and 4 hours to finish.
Post-Treatment Measures
Delicately handling your keratin-treated hair is the trick to keep it friendly, and the following are the choices to make:
- Stay away from washing, tying up, and styling your hair for the next 72 hours after a keratin treatment to avoid the risk of denting
- Always use sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner for your keratin-treated hair for its proper maintenance
- Try to choose hair products comprising keratin, biotin, and zinc to retain the silky, smooth, and shiny look of the hair
- Avoid salt and chlorine water after treating your hair with keratin, as they will strip the treatment due to the harshness.
How Long Does It Last?
It is not a permanent hair straightening procedure; the results will last 3 to 6 months based on your hair care routine and regularly used products.
Risks and Side Effects
During keratin treatment, formaldehyde gas emanates from the formulations the professionals use. This emission level can exceed the national safety standard for chemical exposure by five times (3). Frequent exposure to such high levels of formaldehyde in an enclosed space can pose serious health hazards like nosebleeds, sore throat, scratchy eyes, and respiratory problems for anyone. In addition, the chemical was categorized as a ‘carcinogen’ (cancer-causing substance) by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency in 1987 (4). Therefore, pregnant women, breastfeeding mothers, respiratory patients, and people with sensitivity to formaldehyde should strictly stay away from this treatment. However, formaldehyde-free smoothening formulations are also available in the market these days. Hence, ensure you visit a salon where only this kind of straightener is used.
If you have certain skin conditions like psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis, etc., you should consult a dermatologist prior to undergoing a keratin hair straightening treatment (5).
Costs
Professional keratin treatments usually range from $200 to $800. At-home keratin treatment kits are also available at less than $50, but they are messy, difficult to apply, and not as effective as salon treatments.
So, What are the Differences Between the Two?
Ultimately, deciding whether to opt for chemical relaxers or keratin treatments rests with you. Each has its pros and cons. If you’re comfortable with potentially weakening and restructuring your hair for a more permanent straightening solution, then the chemical relaxer may be your preference. On the other hand, if you’re hesitant to alter the chemical composition of your hair and prefer a temporary outcome, sticking with a keratin treatment is the way to go. Make your choice based on your specific requirements and budget considerations.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Should I Color My Relaxed Hair?
Relaxing and coloring do not go hand in hand. Ammonia and peroxide used in lifting hair color can lead to severe breakage of the strands. So, if you underwent chemical relaxing, replace your permanent hair colors or henna with temporary rinses and semi-permanent colors.
How to Prepare Hair for Chemical Relaxing?
Ensure you do not aggravate your scalp by scratching, brushing vigorously, using harsh shampoos, etc., before relaxing. These will lead to chemical injuries, including scalp irritations and scalp burns.
What are Natural Hair Relaxers?
Natural hair relaxers are deep hair moisturizers that weigh down the hair with extra oils and fat. While using these, your hair will also need some additional heat treatment.
What are Keratin Supplements?
Keratin supplements are keratin proteins found in the form of capsules and powder. They are primarily available in health food stores. However, overconsumption of keratin protein can affect you by causing too much protein buildup in the body.
References:
- “Sample Records for Chemical Hair Relaxer,” Science.gov
- “Feather Keratin Hydrolysates Obtained From Microbial Keratinases: Effect on Hair Fiber,” ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- “Elevated Formaldehyde Concentration in “Brazilian Keratin Type” Hair-Straightening Products: a Cross-Sectional Study,” ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- “Hair-Smoothing Products that Release Formaldehyde When Heated,” FDA.gov
- “Keratin Hair Treatments: What to Expect,” WebMD.com
